Taipei: The historic Alishan Forest Railway, once crippled by typhoons and earthquakes, is running again - and helping revive mountain villages, celebrate Indigenous heritage, and redefine slow travel in Taiwan. The railway, which reopened in 2024 as a tourist attraction, traces its roots back 118 years to when steam locomotives first hauled timber along its tracks.
According to BBC, one of the most passionate advocates for its restoration is Michael Reilly, the former British Representative to Taiwan. Reilly, who is also the company secretary for Wales' Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway, played a pivotal role in establishing a twin relationship between the two railways in 2022. A diesel engine that once operated in Alishan now ferries holidaymakers through the rolling hills of Powys, Wales, as part of this union.
The Alishan Forest Railway is a marvel of engineering, featuring numerous bridges that span forested valleys and tunnels carved through mountains prone to landslides. The railway's history is marked by challenges, including financial difficulties in 1908, a devastating fire in 1976, and the Jiji earthquake in 1999. The final blow came from Typhoon Morakot in 2009, which halted all services. Despite these setbacks, the railway remained a vital link for Indigenous communities, connecting them with essential services.
In 2013, with support from the Taiwan Railway Administration and the Forestry Bureau, limited operations resumed. By 2019, Taiwan's Ministry of Culture announced the creation of the Alishan Forestry and Railway Cultural Landscape. Restoration work continued, and in early 2024, the full 71-kilometer route from Chiayi to Alishan Station was reopened. On April 29, the first passenger train returned to the tracks.
The railway features 50 bridges and 77 tunnels, and its steep sections are a testament to the original engineers' struggles. The journey through Alishan includes stops at stations like Lumachan and Fenqihu, which have experienced revitalization with the restoration of services. Lumachan, once a tobacco hub, is now home to rice paddies, while Fenqihu, historically bustling with railway workers, is regaining its vibrancy.
As passengers traverse the scenic route, they encounter diverse wildlife, including firefly species and giant flying squirrels. The railway's staff, now more gender-diverse than ever, uphold traditions such as the token exchange between conductors and stationmasters. This ritual harks back to the railway's earliest days when trains could only progress with the correct token in hand.
Chiayi, the starting point of the railway, is a city steeped in history. Nearby Hinoki Village, once home to railway workers, has been preserved and transformed into a tourist attraction. Visitors can enjoy bubble tea in renovated drivers' houses and purchase bamboo crafts. The railway's mascot, a fiberglass deer, symbolizes longevity and mirrors the cedar-colored forests of Alishan.
In an era of high-speed travel, the Alishan Forest Railway stands as a testament to resilience and cultural preservation, offering a unique journey through Taiwan's natural beauty and heritage.